Kashmir is beautiful, but Gurez is something else. It feels ancient. Hidden behind the massive Razdan Pass at 11,672 feet, Gurez feels like a secret the mountains are trying to keep.
We started our engines at 5 AM. The goal was to cross Razdan before the afternoon winds kicked in. As we climbed, the pine trees disappeared, replaced by the stark, grey rock of the high Himalayas.
The Pyramid of Poets
When you enter Dawar, the main town, your eyes are immediately drawn to one thing: the Habba Khatoon Peak. It rises like a perfect pyramid, changing colors from gold at sunrise to purple at dusk.
Locals say the poetess Habba Khatoon wandered here searching for her exiled husband. You can almost feel the melancholy in the wind that blows off the Kishanganga river.
"To travel to Gurez is to travel back in time. The wooden log houses and the smiles of the Dard people haven't changed in centuries."
Life on the Border
Camping near the river, we could see the fencing on the ridges. Being this close to the Line of Control (LoC) puts life into perspective. The beauty here is raw, but the reality is harsh. Yet, the hospitality of the locals is warmer than anywhere else in Kashmir.
If you come to Gurez with Friend Circle, bring your camera, but more importantly, bring your respect. This land is sacred to those who live here.